Go South, Hungry Travelers
The dining room at Herons. Photo courtesy of Jerry Blow
By Mollie Chen
Earlier this week, I skipped a James Beard dinner hosted by Chef Phil Evans of North Carolina's Herons restaurant in favor of my couch and a dinner of ice cream and Levain cookies. Bad move. (Sweet potato pie and I shut my mouth...) By all accounts, it was a great dinner, and much more interesting than what was on my DVR. My friend Jennifer Noble-Kelly, who is the publicist for Herons but also an all-around cheerleader for the Triangle area, stopped by the office to tell me what I had missed and fill me in on new developments. Listening to Jenn, you get the feeling that the region is evolving in a very big, very tasty way. From my experience last February, when I spent a long weekend there, I'm inclined to believe her.
During the course of my food-filled Raleigh-Durham trip, I got a chance to eat at Herons, which is in the brand-new Umstead Hotel and Spa. The property is set off a less-than-inspiring mini-interstate, but inside there is sleek contemporary decor and cool nature-inspired contemporary art. Through the windows in the restaurant and the lobby you can see the hotel's twelve acres of woodland and wide, placid pond. At Herons, we were impressed with Evans' versions of regional favorites like pork and beans (here done with the fabled Ossabaw pork and butterscotch beans) and succotash, and I especially loved the towering old-fashioned apple pie.





